My AX10 Thread

[jbrentd]

I wanted to start a thread for my axial AX10 that wasn't in the "Introduce Yourself" section.

It's pretty much stock for now. The GC measures in at 2-5/8"

Stock Chassis
Novak Rooster ECS / 55T Motor
CKRC split cell 1500mah crawler pack
Hitec 645 steering servo
Traxxas TQ3
Stock Shocks with internal springs (0.36" x 1.5")
Traxxas drive shafts
Losi Rock Claws w/ star cut foams







My quest to find a VF dig is finally over. JPH Racing called and said thay had one in stock. It should be here next week. He called about 10 minutes after I placed an order on TCS for a DX3r, TCS upper link mount, bent links and HD lockers. I also have some Mahem Comp Double Phatty's coming too.

I decided last night that I wasn't going to use the TQ3 after I tried to modify it. I figure the DX3r is a good investment no matter what car I'm driving.

My future plans are to get a new chassis (thinking about the Top Banana). There are so many to chose from.

[tslabaugh]

Sounds like you got some goodies coming!

You need to get some deans plugs for that battery/esc too!

[jbrentd]

Dig is in (sort of). I need to shorten the rear shaft a bit. Anyone have any pointers or how much to shorten?

[Shaun]

Why are you shortening it? Normally people cut the drive shaft instead of the shaft(or maybe thats just me)

You can use a hack saw, dremel, or I' always in a hurry so I just use side cutters.

Also if you wanted to get really fancy you could chuck the axle in a drill press or a dril held in a vice, and then use an exacto knife.

[jbrentd]

I meant the drive shaft.

[tslabaugh]

On mine...I'd cut a little off with the dremel and try it and cut a little more..until it was just right. That way the male part is still mostly reinforced with the female make it stronger.

[ElkySS]

X2 slow and steady wins the race. you don't want to cut off to much or there will not be enough of the female end and it will just twist off. On mine I think I ended up taking off about 1/4 a inch or so. VF has an assembly guide on their site that says to take off 3/8 to 1/2. After you cut a little bit off and get it all back to together be sure to articulate it as much as you can and watch it to make sure that it never bottoms out. When I first put mine together I had a problem with it articulating and all of the sudden I would be in freewheel because the male end was just a hare to long. It would bottom out in the female (hehehe) and bind it up just enough to push the shaft into freewheel. test test test...

[JBHardwear]

I cut exactly a 1/4 inch off of mine

[ElkySS]

kewl. can't wait to see it at the comp.

[jbrentd]

It works good. I just ended up using a small pipe cutter and trimmed a little at a time until it was right.

[jbrentd]

kewl. can't wait to see it at the comp.

Aug 9th, right? I hope to be there, but my wife has surgery a couple days before that and I might be a little pre-occupied. Is that the last one for a while?

[jbrentd]

Well, I plan on doing some work to my rig next week while at home. I bought a used slingshot chassis on RCC and it came in the mail yesterday. I plan to use some Revo shocks I picked up on ebay. I'm just not sure on what to do for links. Any thoughts?

I'll try to get some pictures up soon.

I also plan to convert everything to Dean's plugs. One question though. Is it a good idea to put a set between the motor and ESC?

[Shaun]

If you want your welcome to use my drill press, I have been making my own solid aluminum links, cut the aluminum, drill it, tap it, then just cut a stud off of some 4-40 all thread, put on the link end, and your done. I haven't had a problem with mine, yet, so far all I'm running is the 2 lower rear links.

There is also a number of other ways, you can use althread and sleeve it with brake line, brass, stainless steel, or aluminum. There is also the possibility of using arrow shafts.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129358&highlight=arrow+links

I know theres also another thread about the arrows on RCC, you might want to search around for "arrow links"

Also, if your not into fabricating, you can order links from a number of places.
RC4WD.COM
XTREME-RC-HOBBIES.NET
And theres quiet a few vendors on RCC(RCCrawler.com

[jbrentd]

I bought some delrin rod from smallparts.com. I already have the rod ends and threaded inserts. We'll see how it goes.

[Shaun]

I missed your question about the deans connector between the motor, I personally like to run the EC2 Bullet connectors, but the deans are also plentiful and cheap.

You will need a pack of females, and a pack of males, then you will have one two females and males left over to do something else with.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB9617

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB9618

I just use them for the speed of disconnecting them.

[jbrentd]

***Some Updates***

I picked up a used Slingshot off a guy on RCC and began to rebuild my stock Scorpion. On to the detials.

Motor/Transmission
- AX-10 Transmission
- DNA Dig
- Novak 55T




Electronics
- Novak Rooster Crawler ESC
- SR3100 RX
- DX3R TX
- Hitec HS 645MG servo for steering.
- 6 cell saddle pack
- Hitec 225BB servo for dig
- Converted everything to Dean's plugs for this build




Chassis/Suspension/Axles
- VF Slingshot
- Revo shocks w/ droop/internal springs on the front only
- Custom delrin links with Traxxas #1942 rod ends (75mm uppers, 80mm lowers)
- AX10 axles w/ HD lockers
- AX10 beadlocks (Mayhem phatty's should be here today or tommorow)
- Losi Rock Claws with star cut foams

Any comments are welcome. Currently, my wheelbase is right at 12" and my ground clearance is at 2-3/4". Can I get some more length by simply making longer lower links, or will I have to make another full set? Also, articulation is pretty limited. I know too much is not good, but I don't get much. What's a desireable amount?

[Shaun]

That looks awesome man! I hope to see it tomorrow.

You can squeeze a little bit of length out of it by making longer rear links, but on the front you will want to make a full set, if you just add to the lower links on the front you will end up with negative caster. On a crawler you want you caster to be at 0 degrees( straight up and down) If you have positive or negative caster, your turning radius will be reduced and it will also stress the servo more than normal.

On the rear it wont make a difference since the rear wheels don't steer. How ever you will have to watch out for your pinion angle.

[ElkySS]

and bent rears would come in handy as well. I am not sure how to bend delrin but it would help get them out of the way when cresting rocks.

[jbrentd]

Unfortunately, I won't be able to make it tomorrow. The wife had surgery a couple of days ago and needs help here at the house.

Bent link will be in the works for the rear once I figure out the best way to bend the delrin. I would guess a heat gun, but need to make sure.

I added a 4mm spacers on all of the lowers and was able to get the WB right at 12.5". The front axles was a little tucked under anyway. So, it should help with the steering.

[jbrentd]

After a month of waiting, I received some aluminum goodness. I actually ordered some comp phatty's, but received these. It was my fault though because I changed my original order. Mayhem says I can use them until he gets them done.

[tslabaugh]

Damn those wheels look sick.

[CD13]

Unplug your battery.The esc will cause drain on them even turned off.

[jbrentd]

Here are some action shots from last weekend out at my mom's place on Keystone Lake.

[DARKHORSE]

Your rig look killer, Im diggin the crawling shots tooo

[jbrentd]

I need to find a support group or something. I can't stop messing with it. Painted up a new Rock Steady body. Here's some pics. It's a brighter red in person. The lighting sucked. I also decided to make the switch to MORE POWER. Mamba Max, CC BEC, MaxAmps 2000mah 11.1v lipo and Hyperion 0606i are on the way. After this, the only pieces that are from my original purchase are the steering servo, tranny and axles.

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